This was my 16th time attending— and for the first time, I walked away with a few reflections on Milan Design Week I hadn’t had before.

I don’t publish critical thoughts online but share them rarely with my inner circle. But I came back concerned; it took me a month to digest, and I am ready to share now, hoping it adds to the conversation.

If you’d ever asked me after any trade show, I was always happy. No matter how many novelties I discovered, there was always at least one conversation, one concept, or one new contact that made the whole experience worthwhile. I’ve visited more than 100 shows over the years and used to come back fueled with positive energy.

And that’s true for this year’s edition as well. Still, something shifted for me — and no, it’s not about the queues. I’ve accepted that as part of the experience. We need to divide and conquer as teams to make the most of the week.

Here’s what stood out to me this year:

1. A drop in quality.

I felt that some brands were just there for the sake of presence—to be seen, to be part of the event, to claim their piece of the MDW spotlight—exhibiting for the sake of it. But I missed the why, the concept, the storytelling, the meaning behind the work.

The fashion industry might also consider a more rigorous self-analysis to see how it can contribute more meaningfully.

2. Sustainability is being driven from the bottom up.

The smaller brands, design schools, and freelancers are leading the charge. Where are the bigger players? Where are the role models setting the tone year after year? The industry lacks a sense of community around sustainability. Ironically, it’s the educational institutions showing the most consistency.

Don’t get me wrong; there were many smaller projects on materiality and sustainable innovation, but they felt diluted among the 2000+ exhibitors.

3. A lack of trend insight in well-being.

Well-being has become so technology-focused that, to stay current, you now need to visit other fairs. That’s new—I used to return from MDW with loads of insight into this space. It also leaves me thinking: Was this just a focus during and after the pandemic?

4. Less spectacle.

I understand it’s hard to sustain the big showstoppers year after year. The effort for studios and companies is massive. But I missed those bold, unforgettable installations. They were the heart of MDW — you wouldn’t find them anywhere else in the world. They made the week truly unique.

5. Is this getting elitist?

Accommodation costs have hit a tipping point — I’ve never paid so much to attend MDW.

Design, too, is showing signs of exclusivity. Collective Design had a strong presence. I overheard a conversation on prices, and I know these are gallery prices; I just wondered if they had the audience these days. And who is, anyhow, today’s audience visiting the design week?

LOEWE, a huge supporter of craftsmanship, presented an installation of teapots. But did you know they were for sale? A sales associate approached me to mention that the pair I admired cost €16,000. And that half was already sold out, though I did not ask for that information. It left me wondering: Who is this really for, and should we look again into the spirit of the design week?

Bottomline:

You can’t compare Milan Design Week to anything else — it’s still unmatched and will stay like that. But considering the wider trade show crisis we’re seeing across Europe, it feels like a bit of that fatigue may be reaching Milan, too. Let’s see what 2026 brings:)

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